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A name among the city’s foodies for more than 30 years, Frank Ma and his wife Amy have owned many Chinese restaurants, and this past summer, he rose again, this time on Briarcliff Road. Here, the bright neon sign says Chopsticks, but underneath that name on the door is smallish lettering calling the nondescript spot Frank Ma South. Once again in Ma-like fashion he has left this restaurant to rise like the Phoenix at a yet unnamed spot, but the menu, ostensibly titled in large red letters, “Frank Ma’s Authentic Chinese Menu,” still offers most of the items Ma-bies will come for: light scallion pancakes, flecked with bits of the green onions and delicately fried; steamed pork buns, plump with light dough and filled with savory minced pork; Shanghai juice dumplings, deliciously steamed. Ma’s dishes are in a class of their own: Pork belly with leeks offers tender strips of bacon-like pork and sliced leeks with little other flavoring. Clean, fresh and surprisingly non-greasy, it’s perhaps the menu’s best offering
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