Venue Review: Agave
(09/01/2005) Look up "neighborhood restaurant" in the dictionary, and you'll find a description of Agave. This Cabbagetown favorite serves the kind of food anyone with their own set of Henckels could probably make at home, but with less flair and a lot less consistency. Here, they'll get more homespun dishes that all the regulars have come to know and love: the posole soup, with its deeply layered chile broth, strips of smoky pulled pork and kernel after kernel of hominy or the cayenne fried chicken, juicy and tender with a drizzle of poblano-laced kick to its crust. Yes, there are quirky, outdated tortilla triangles as garnish and fusion dishes that would make even Wolfgang Puck raise an eyebrow. But most of the food is solid and straightforward and will have you humming Wang Chung and Madonna all the way home.